Three fabulous events bedazzled San Francisco this winter: Attilio Codognato's extraordinary jewels went on display at the Sorokko Gallery, the much-anticipated Manetti Shrem Museum had a gala opening celebration, and Shreve & Company moved to a shiny new flagship store. And I have first-hand reports on all of them!
ATTILIO CODOGNATO JEWELRY EXHIBITED FOR THE FIRST TIME OUTSIDE VENICE, ITALY
"Where has this remarkable jewelry been all my life?" I wondered, completely bowled over by the distinctive, bold, oversized collection from Venetian master jeweler Attilio Codognato at the Sorokko Gallery in San Francisco.
One reason it was new to me was that the works of Codognato and his forebears—celebrated Italian jewelers for generations—have never been offered for sale or exhibited (other than in selected museums) beyond the walls of their 1866 original shop in Venice, near Piazza San Marco.
It's not that gallerist Serge Sorokko and his wife Tatiana Sorokko—a top model, fashion editor, and couture collector who has been a friend and client of Codognato for 25 years—hadn't tried for years to make it happen. "I have always been reluctant to exhibit outside of my place in Venice,* Attilio explained. "After more than two decades, the Sorokkos' persistence has paid off."
CASA CODOGNATO, A VENERABLE JEWELRY HOUSE
The exhibit at the Sorokko Gallery, located at the heart of Union Square, was timed to honor the 150th anniversary of Casa Codognato. Entitled Coveted Jeweis by Codognato, the San Francisco show comprised a collection of fifty works from the House's archives and the designer's private collection.
"The absence of a distinction between jewelry and art is what makes Codognato's works so desirable and collectable," said Tatiana Sorokko, citing also its originality, uniqueness, beauty, artistry, and instantly obvious timelessness.
CELEBRITY FANS
Jewelry by the Codognato family has long attracted high-profile clients, among them members of the 19th- and 20th-century Italian and Russian royal families; writers and artists such as Jean Cocteau, Ernest Hemingway, and Andy Warhol, and celebrities like Maria Callas, Elizabeth Taylor (her husband Richard Burton bought her a serpent bracelet), and Luchino Visconti (who browsed nightly while filming Death in Venice).
Other fans include arbiters of style such as Barbara Hutton (who, like Visconti. never asked the price), Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Diana Vreeland, and Coco Chanel (who acquired her famous pearls from Casa Codognato).
THE DISTINCTIVE STYLE OF ATTILIO CODOGNATO
Since he took over the firm in 1958, Attilio Codognato has become particularly well known for work rooted not so much in religion, as Serge Sorokko pointed out, but rather themes of alchemy, Byzantine imagery, symbolism, and especially memento mori.
Created to remind people of their mortality, memento mori jewelry and objects date to ancient times. The iconography included images of death, such as skulls, bones, and snakes. Such items, inspired by the Latin phrase "remember you must die" (supposedly uttered to humble vainglorious ancient Roman generals). are reminders of the cycle of birth and death.
Codognato's influence, especially his skull motifs, can be seen in the work of many artists and designers, notably John Galliano and Alexander McQueen. The recent exclusive "club" of Attilio's enthusiasts and collectors, fans of the fantastic, includes Princess Firyal of Jordan, Elton John, Kate Moss, Tom Ford, and Nicole Kidman.
ATTILIO'S LEGACY
"Attilio is truly an influential contemporary artist," said Tatiana Sorokko, who for over half a century has been creating objects of unparalleled beauty in line with a fabled family tradition."
In recognition of his singular talent, the government of France bestowed upon Codognato the prestigious honor of Chevalier de l'Ordre des Arts et des Lettres in 2012.
In the hands of a master like Attilio Codognato, jewelry is art, to be acquired just like painting and sculpture. Better still, it can be worn as well as displayed. The Sorokkos exhibit was a huge success: it almost completely sold out, and, what's more, this distinctive art genre attracted a brand-new set of collectors in San Francisco.